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HAVA NICE TRIB
Luxor Revised, 2001
What happened to Luxor since the fatal massacre in 1997, and how is the place taking it all today?
As I'm just back from a research tour to Luxor (disguised as holiday, or was it the other way around?), an destination I should know after living here for nearly eight years.
Today? Quite a lot has happened, there is an Internet cafe on every corner where one before could not even make a phone call directly to the other side of the Nile. My friend Ibrahim have become the head of the inspectors of antiquities on the unbelievable west bank of Luxor, and Dr. Mohamed Nasser have moved as director for the antiquities of the west bank and sit now responsible for both the east and west bank monuments in Luxor.
Still underneath the changes there is a "rebirth" of "old Luxor", even the kind old jokes have got the opportunity to be recycled. As the story of President who came back from a visit to USA and told that his name written on all doors in Egypt. "Yes, but why?" he was questioned - and the President answered: "Look, in USA the President have his name on nearly all doors, why should not we?".
Don't get it?
Add the fact that the language in Egypt has no difference between "P" and "B" - and the first time the joke came was under President Bush (senior ) and today - who is USA's president but his son? Of course you all seen doors with "Bush" written on the handles (or was it "Push"?).
A story leading to another part that not has changed, the humour!
This is a fact far more important to know than "experts" telling page up and page down about how to dress or travel in Egypt. Whenever you have a problem, a driver who wants far to high payment or other - use humour!
Thirteen years ago I was to Egypt with a television and artist team, and we should visit the first rock temple in Egypt. The place Speos Artemidos was a bit out of any normal route and we needed donkeys to go there. Yes we found the donkeys, then the owners - and then a discussion.
My team fell into a discussion and there were soon loud arguments on both sides. Then I remembered my good time with Egyptian friends, so I went over to the donkey owners and told them I found the price very good and that they should not listen to the persons in my team. I explained that the only problem I had was that I had not planned to buy the donkeys, just wanted to rent them for a few hours. Then one of the donkey owners started to laugh, then the rest - and in the end we where a good bunch of new friends riding out in the desert.
So when I heard the recycled "push/Bush" joke, well then I knew Luxor was all okay again after the terrible shock in 1997. Once again young boys are welcoming you with "Welcome to Alaska" and you can hear a new story on the local ferry. Nothing makes me happier as this is "Luxor reborn".
 Every evening the Atum sun sets red and large into the western desert while it's last rays spread magic over the Nile. It is in this moment you still feel the thousand years old atmosphere from times back when Luxor was the capital of Egypt and named Waset. Around, the tourists fill the Nile Streets, and by the Nile bank you find the feluccas, the traditional Egyptian Nile-sailboats.
The transition between day and night happens in an instant here south in Egypt, and the stars are already up. From the lamplight onboard the feluccas I can see that the closest boat I pass is named after the bird "Belikan" and outside I see a boat called "HAVA NICE TRIB"
- and so you once again may have in Luxor.
I continue my walk along Nile bank, laughing silently as I just remember another very good joke...
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Text & photo, Arnvid Aakre
www.egyptmyway.com
First Published April 2001
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