Coming out of the narrow alley after the gate of Sultan Qait Bay, we are back in a bit larger street. Further east runs the Nasr autostrada filled with cars in both direction - and before this a rusty portal.

The gate is open and we pass two red old cars, which we hardly notice as it further in is a beautifully designed cupola above the trees and palms.

Until just a few months ago this place was closed to the public, but lucky us - now it's open. Well, who would know? No tourist flocks, or even individual travellers around - still its one of the most important pearls of Cairo that's located in this garden of past glory.

This is the funeral complex of Khedive Tawfik and his family, and let us explain who this is before we enter the monument.

Tawfik's father, Khedive Ismail - the extravagant reformer, was the person who stood behind the building of the Suez Channel. With this followed the grand opening of the Suez channel which again was described by the author Henrik Ibsen in following words:

"9th of October 1869 - The Suez Canal, the new trade gate should be inaugurated. Khedive Ismail, Vice-King of Egypt, had invited guests from all European countries. I was among them and can verify a hospitality with riches from fairy tales".

"Riches from fairy tales" for sure! Some years later it's recorded that Khedive Ismail had a debt to European creditors of £ 80 million. To quote from Alan Moorehead's classical book "The White Nile":

"Baring and his colleagues, with the backing of their European governments, had supervised the final sinking of the Khedive with diplomatic skill. The Sultan in Constantinople, who was still the nominal overlord of Egypt, was induced to send Ismail a telegram in which he addressed him as the 'ex-Khedive' and informed him that his eldest son Tewfik had succeeded to his place".

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